Hungary. Tokaji
The Tokaji region is 200 km Northeast of Budapest in Hungary, and includes 28 villages, covering 5,500 hectares of gently sloping hills formed by ancient volcanoes. It has been described as “Burgundy without signposts”, yet it remains hauntingly wild and remote.
In 1700, Tokaji became the first European vineyard to be classified, its uniquely varied terroirs and climates rated “Primae Classis, Secundae Classis, Tertius Classis.” The soils are largely clay, with a volcanic substratum. The three principal grape varieties grown in Tokaji are Furmint, Harslevelu, and Muscatel, the latter used as a seasoning, as in Sauternes.
The first Tokaji Aszú wine was created in the 1600’s, perhaps by accident, a harvest delayed by threat of enemy invasion. “Aszú is the Magyar term for “dried berries,” referring to the botrytis-infected grapes. For maximum botrytis and the almost fiery intensity of great Tokaji, yields must be kept at 10 hectoliters per hectare. In some years no Aszú wines can be made, as botrytis cinerea requires high humidity and a long, warm autumn, with foggy air rising off the nearby Tisza and Bodros rivers.
The Aszú berries are hand-picked and sorted into “puttonyos”, or wooden tubs holding 20 liters of the shrivelled, raisiny, botrytised fruit. “Puttonyos” are used as the measurement of sweetness of the final wine: The more puttonyos, the sweeter, richer, rarer, and more expensive the Tokaji. The berries are crushed and the syrupy Aszú paste is added to each gonci (140-liter barrel) of base wine or “Tokaji Szamorodni”, which was made the previous year from unaffected grapes. The mixture is stirred repeatedly for two or more days to extract the natural sugars and aromas of the paste. The small casks are then stored in the cellars, where a second fermentation is caused by the addition of the Aszú paste. This can take several months to several years, due to the cold cellar temperature and the high sugar content of the wine. [Read more...]



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